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June 29, 2009

A sunny sunday


Enough testing. The Alpha Test is going to end anyway soon. Just relax, sit outside in the garden and have a good time. Which doesn't mean that I cannot press the shutter once in a while ;)


And then I saw a red balloon in the distance.

Shot freehand with a Pentax K-7 and a FA* 300/4.5 lens. You may click on the image above to view it in original size and see that the opening image actually is nothing but a 100% crop from this very image. You actually can see heads more than 3 km or 2 miles away (as I later computed).

Enjoy ;)

June 28, 2009

K-7 and ergonomics

This is just a short essay about 5 ergonomic details in the K-7 which may create worries.


1. The omission of the Shake Reduction button

The K20D has a clearly visible SR button which is missing in the K-7. The following sequence is required in the K-7 to switch SR on or off. First, lets define how I call the buttons around the OK button: "8", "4", "5", "6", "2", like on a numeric keypad, with "5" being the OK-button itself ("8" is the drive button on top of "5").

[INFO] -> [2]/[6]{0-6} -> [RearDialClick]

{0-6} means that the button must be pressed 0 to 6 times, depending on where it was before. Assuming you only switch SR, it is just two buttons, [INFO] -> [RearDialClick]

Because SR is switched off automatically, e.g., on a tripod with remote control, this omission is no big deal.


2. The omission of the exposure bracket button

The K20D has an exposure bracket button which serves to quickly enable exposure bracket using the two dials to set #images and EV distance in between.

Assuming you always use the same exposure bracket (e.g., 5 exposures 2EV apart), the enabling sequence is as follows:

enable: [8] -> [4] -> [4] -> [5]
disable: [8] -> [6] -> [6] -> [5]

So, it is 4 button presses to activate and de-activate. If used often, one can live withit. But it is a lot less fun to set than with the K20D. Again, this omission is no deal breaker though.


3. Pressing OK for AF selection

Not being a heavy user of AF point selection, I can live with pressing OK prior to AF point selection. A user which relies on AF point selection however, will not understand why the logics isn't inverted as soon as you dial into AF point "SEL" mode. Because now, a change of AF point is much more frequent than, e.g., a change of drive mode.

So I really hope that Pentax adds a custom setting which makes AF selection the default in "SEL" AF point mode where pressing OK acts like Fn.

-- UPDATE --
As of today (July 29, 2009), Pentax has released a firmware update (v.1.01) which adds exactly the behaviour as described above as an option. Now, AF point selection can be used like with a K20D (i.e., the OK button will act as mode switch, not as middle AF point selector).

Pentax, thank you for listening!
-- END of UPDATE --


4. The mode dial lock button (mdlb)

The mode dial of the K-7 on the left side controls mode such as P, Av etc. In order to prevent that it can be changed inadvertently, it got a button in the middle to lock it. It must be pressed in order to turn the dial.

I developped a technique using three fingers from my left hand: the index finger presses the lock while the two neighboring fingers (one is the thumb) turn. Any other technique including using two hands (the obvious choice) turned out to create headaches.

There are two problems with the mdlb:


  • Engaging it will more probably lead to an inadverted change of the exposure meter mode (the level right underneath!) than the mode would change w/o the mdlb. And this inadverted change passes unnotices most of the time!
    Therefore, adding the mdlb and not removing the exposure meter mode level is a clear engineering mistake.
  • They've put the video button as a mode
    So all of a sudden, mode changes are frequent. While it was ok to stay in Av mode for ages with, e.g., a K20D, you now have to always switch between video and Av modes. If you seriously use video, you'll soon do it blindly -- and change exposure meter mode sooner or later.

So, you better regularly check your exposure meter mode, and EXIF for photos said underexposed ;)

I consider the mdlb to be a real nuisance. Pentax, please, take it back! Or make it toggle so we can leave it unlocked permanently.

And by the way, making the video button a mode is a schnapsidee (crazy idea) ...

5. Focal length info

The info screen has changed. It is more useful now. But I found no way anymore to display the focal length of a zoom lens prior to a shot.

Overall

With the exception of the mdlb, I like the new interface. And I didn't want to discuss the RAW button ;) The info button grants easy access to many quick changes. So, despite some weak points, I consider the overall button ergonomics of the K-7 even better than that of the K20D. Anyway, I really like the ergonomics of Pentax, in particular their hyperprogram and manual focus shift philosophy.

June 24, 2009

K-7 as a movie camera -- PART III: Sample video

-> Link to part I

After all the preparation, I would like to share a short and uninspired video with you. And some thoughts about post processing ...

This is a short video sequence shot at 1536 x 1024 with a Pentax K-7 during an oldtimer car meeting earlier this year near Munich.



Pentax K-7 movie in 1080p from falconeye on Vimeo.


This video is nothing special. But I will use it to illustrate


Options for post-processing


1. The form factor.


720p video is 1280x720, 1080p video is 1920x1080, both in 16:9 aspect ratio. The native video capture is in 1536x1024 or 3:2 aspect ratio.


  • 1536x1024 -> 720p: magnify by 83.33%, crop 8.00% from upper and lower edge each.

  • 1536x1024 -> 1080p: magnify by 125%, crop 7.81% (100px) from upper and lower edge each.

There is no benefit in recording in 720p directly, except for a better control of framing (16:9 framing on rear display) and smaller file sizes. For 720p, the camera does the same supersampling to 83% size one would do in post-processing otherwise. On the other side, keeping the 1536x1024 material provides some more options for post-processing.

1536x1024 material is not suitable for direct presentation. Here, 720p is a better option.



2. Recoding.


Most video editing software will directly open the AVI file stored on SD card. Additionally, Apple Quicktime will open the file and Quicktime Pro allows to extract individual or all frames as images. Or to recode the movie, e.g., to MP4 AVC H.264.

Photoshop CS3/CS4 can open the AVI file directly as well and you get a video layer. There, you can do many image operations like you do for still images and recode, e.g., again to MP4.

After touching up the raw material, I used Adobe Premiere Elements for more video-oriented editing. On the Apple, MacOSX has something similiar on board, called iMovie.



3. Quality.


The K-7 captures stunning video quality. But it isn't good enough to justify the extra size coming with 1080p, compared to 720p. At least not without further touching up the quality.

Below, you'll see two frame images from the short clip above. The first is as out of the camera.



The second image is post-processed using my K-7 video IQ master (a program which I developed to defeat the "768-aliasing artifact"). The K-7 video IQ master is work in progress and yet unpublished. The basic idea is to use the insight about the submatrix as described in part I and try to correct some of the weaknesses in the original algorithm as built into the camera.



You may have to click onto the images to see the original size to study the difference. According to several opinions, the filtered footage has less fringing and less jaggy lines while still gaining (or at least maintaining) on overall detail (read: without becoming softer). It was used to create the 1080p clip in the opening of the article.

I hope that a forthcoming version of the K-7 video IQ master will be good enough to render 1080p footage to the same stunning quality we now see in 720p footage. And further improve on 720p quality. Btw, I very much welcome any comments on this topic.

As a side note. It is no problem to add motion blur to frames belonging to a panning action. Or tilt to remove the skew. Just open the corresponding video sequence in CS3.



Conclusion:


This shall conclude my three part article about the video capabilities of the Pentax K-7.

The video mode in the Pentax K-7 looks like a very promising proposition. It can produce stunning video quality, esp. in 720p. However, Pentax made a number of trade-offs to keep the camera affordable as a still camera (and it is a high spec camera already w/o video). Therefore, to achieve maximum possible quality in movies, a number of tweaks applied during capture and in post-processing are of help.



Enjoy your moving images :)

Further reading:

June 23, 2009

K-7 as a movie camera -- PART II: Controlling video recording


In part I, we have discussed the technical implementation of the video feature in the Pentax K-7.

Now, let's see how to make good use of it. Again, I'm not going to repeat the specification or user's guide.

At first glance, it seems to be very straight-forward: Turn the mode dial to movie and press the shutter! Ok, done this, been there. Now, for the more serious fun: how do we control shooting parameters?

The official answer by Pentax is: you don't! There is almost no manual over shooting parameters. But as always, there are back doors :)

Things to know:

  1. You can set global parameters like pixel format, quality, shake reduction in the "video" menu (press the menu button when in video mode) and is not affected by all the nice settings you may have tweaked. E.g., forget about your Auto-ISO range ;)

  2. Autofocus, aperture and E/V-compensation can be set prior to a recording. All three are defunct while recording. Of course, the camera won't complain if you change aperture or focus manually (read: mechanically). The focus in video mode is contrast autofocus by default. But you can switch to phase autofocus which is faster.

  3. The exposure (with all its parameters) can be locked/unlocked before and during a recording, using the AE-L button.

  4. EV values in video and still image modes seem to be the same.



Controlling exposure


Knowing the video exposure response curve is key in determinig and manually controlling an exposure in a K-7 video. It isn't published by Pentax but I researched them to be this:

Assuming an aperture is preset to a given value:





















































































































































































































































Light value [EV] at f/ShutterSensitivity
1.42.02.84.05.68.011162232    [s][ISO]
0123456789underexposureblng red
123456789101/303200
2345678910111/301600
34567891011121/30800
456789101112131/30400
5678910111213141/30200
67891011121314151/30100
789101112131415161/60100
8910111213141516171/125100
91011121314151617181/250100
101112131415161718191/500100
111213141516171819201/1000100
121314151617181920211/2000100
131415161718192021221/4000100
14151617181920212223overexposureblng red

How to read the table: Look up the aperture in the upper left (e.g., f/5.6, marked in bold), search the measured light value in the corresponding column (e.g., EV 10) and look up shutter speed and ISO in the same row (e.g., 1/30s, ISO 100).


I didn't research much how aperture would be controlled if set to AUTO. But it will choose a combination from the diagonal line of constant EV in the table above. In AUTO, the aperture is controlled live and you can hear the aperture blades moving! IMHO, this is a cool feature for a dSLR with a legacy SLR lens!

(Update) I had another look at this.

In video recording with aperture set to AUTO, I illuminated the sensor with a torch and observed the lens aperture's reaction. This is what happened:

  • Without extra light: wide open (f/2.4)
  • With medium extra light (torch into lens): shut down (f/5.6) (*)
  • With full extra light (torch fully aligned and directly in front of lens): closed down (f/11) (*)

(*) estimated from diameter left open by aperture blades, as seen thru the front lens element.

There are really only these 3 steps. With a f/5.6 lens, this reduces to really only two steps. If it changes aperture, it does so by jumping 2EV, at least. Of course, it causes a visible jump in brightness in the video then being compensated afterwards. Therefore, manually shifting aperture creates a much smoother effect. (end of update)




Note: The above table may not be fully accurate. E.g., the sweet spot shutter speed (1/30s) may be shorter, like 1/50s, actually. Note that many videographers prefer a shutter speed of 1/30s or 1/50s (i.e., the motion blur from it) for 30fps footage to minimize a stuttering effect in panning action. Also note that all this is from my own research. Pentax doesn't disclose the information given above and the recorded video contains no useful meta information.

Now, using the response curve above, you can meter any subject, set the required aperture, use E/V-compensation to hit the required EV value, switch to movie mode (E/V compensation stays active!), lock exposure with AE-L and you successfully manually controlled your video parameters!

It is possible. But I agree that it is awkward in many if not most circumstances. If you need longer shutter times at daylight without wanting to stop down then you need to use a gray filter like you maybe would use for water still photography. Note that for video, you can stop fully down without loosing sharpness in the resulting video.


However, what I did find very easy to use is the following trick: In video mode, before starting to record, I observe the live histogram on the rear display when pointing to different subjects which will emerge during a scene. Then I point to a "typical" histogram and lock exposure. Eventually, I record using these parameters.



Controlling focus


Autofocus stays inactive during recording (it was enabled up to firmware release 0.20). However, it is so slow and badly implemented that it wouldn't be useful in actual footage anyway. If you need to refocus using the autofocus, the fastest would be to set live view autofocus to phase detect and stop a recording (press the shutter again and wait ~2s), press the AF button (~1s) and start recording again (~1s). If there is no time for a ~5s break, then you must control focus manually. Unfortunately, magnifying live view is inactive during recording as well (and the view finder stays dark, of course).

Fortunately, the quality of the rear screen with its 640x480 resolution allows an approximate focus. If the DoF effect isn't required, then shooting with fixed focus at hyperfocal distance is a viable option. The DoF calculations as obtained for an APS-C sensor do still apply. If you need to pixel peep, set circle of confusion to 0.015 mm.

If you need more control over the focus, using either a field monitor or an enlarging eye piece looking at the rear screen may be an option. The K-7 outputs live view and life audio via HDMI in 480p, 576p, 720p or 1080p. The image at the top of this article shows a K-7 hooked up to an HDMI 1.3 type C cable. However, the video data will always be 480p only, possibly enlarged to match the HDMI protocol.





K-7 videographing its own live view from falconeye on Vimeo.



The video above shows how the live feed from the K-7 behaves. In particular, you can assess the latency between reality and HDMI output. I guess it is about 1/3 s.

There are field monitors one can connect via HDMI and mount to the hot shoe or flash bar. The flash bar however, may be the better choice if a microphone is already mounted to the hot shoe ;) Because the feed is always 480p only, there would be no additional benefit in getting a 800x600 or 720p field monitor (this notice may not hold true for the Samsung GX30). A 5-6" 480p field monitor with HDMI input will do it. Avoid monitors with A/V analog input only.

Field monitors may have a headphone jack for audio playback as well.

And of course, for proper framing and smooth operation, you'll definitely want a video rig :)


Controlling shake


The K-7 features electro-mechanical sensor stabilization which proves very efficient in video capture. Note however that it is designed to work for still photography. So, it cannot compensate all the shake during a longer take. Because wide angle requires the anti shake to compensate less and is more stable in the first place, it is best to use wide angle (and tele lenses on a tripod). Or a rig again ;)

Note that a wide angle lens has a closer hyperfocal distance and produces smoother panning as well. So, I just adopted wider lenses as my standard when videographing.


Controlling audio


The built-in mono microphone is very sensitive to environmental noise like wind. So, using an external (stereo) microphone is a much better option (or use external sound recording and a take board). I tried the RØDE Stereo VideoMic connected to the flash hot shoe and it produces excellent results. The recorded quality is definitely more than sufficient for voice and sound. For music one may want to record externally.

Btw, there is no control of volume. But the recording level is relatively low and I didn't have any problems with either oversteer or noise floor.



Now, let's go out and have fun with video. I.e., it is time for part III.

-> Continue to part III

June 22, 2009

K-7 as a movie camera -- PART I: The technical foundation

One of the more exciting features of the K-7 is its ability to record video in HD.

I will not repeat the specifications here. But it has an excellent 720p@30Hz recording mode and a 1536x1024p@30Hz mode which is almost full HD and can be used to create FullHD footage. In practice, it writes MJPEG at about 50 MBit/s and therefore can often outperform video recorded in AVCHD.

Many would think that Nikon D90 was the first dSLR sporting HD video. But this is only true 50%. The earlier Pentax K20D already included the ability to record video at 1024p@21Hz, although limited to clips of 5.6s each. So, the video funtion in the K-7 is regarded as already being version 2 by many Pentaxians.

My article about video will come in three parts:

  1. The technical foundation (this part)

  2. Controlling video recording in practice

  3. Samples videos



PART I: The technical foundation


I am the kind of person who needs to look under the hood. Driving is fun. But seeing and grabbing the engine underneath is fun too ;) Read what I've found out.

First of all, video from a dSLR isn't a trivial thing to implement. Of course, one could read out all 14.6 raw million pixels 30 times a second (or at least 24) and construct the corresponding video frames, ideally by supersampling pixels into the smaller size, and compressing to a video codec. But this implies a tremendous processing load (i.e., processing 6.53 GBit/s raw input data in real time!). Implementing it this way (and I think Canon does it this way in their 5DmkII) makes the camera significantly more expensive than would have been required by still photography alone.

Pentax choose to implement it in a way which doesn't increase cost at all. The sensor of the K20D can be read out at a rate of 750+ MBit/s, or 375+ MBit/s per each of its two channels. This is exactly enough to support 3.3 fps at full resolution. In order to support 5.2 fps with the K-7 (seemingly 6.0 fps in the Samsung GX30), Pentax/Samsung doubled the number of channels to four and the K-7 sensor can be read out at a rate of 1.5 GBit/s. As staggering as this figure may seem, it is still only ~20% of what would be required following the approach above. It would have been somewhat easier with a 6 MPixel camera though ;)

Therefore, Pentax created a special subsampling mode where only every 6th raw pixel value is read out from the sensor at 30 Hz. This special signal is always used to create live view, zoomed live view and HD video frames, for all of Pentax K20D (21 Hz), Pentax K-7, Samsung GX20 (21 Hz), Samsung GX30 and Samsung NX' electronic view finder.

Because an HD video has only 2 MPixels (or less) which is about only 1/6th of pixels of a 16:9 still image, this means that at the same ISO step, pixel noise from a video frame and from a still image will look very similiar. Of course, using only every 6th pixel looses 2.5 EV stops in low light performance compared to ambitious supersampling approach. However, even 1/6th of the surface of an APS-C sensor is still a lot larger than the combined surface in dedicated 3 chip HD camcorders. So, videos in low light will look good. It is just that they could look even better.



The subsampling matrix


How are colors reconstructed if only every 6th pixel is read? This is a problem because standard demosaicing techniques as known from a Bayer matrix don't apply. Rather, color is constructed from picking values out of the Bayer matrix with a given color filter. Below is one variant of possible locations where color values are picked from:


(note: if you click onto the image, you can find another variant which most likely would yield better results.)

As you can see, the submatrix forms a pattern repeating every 6x6 pixels. Only 6 pixel values are picked from such a 6x6 area, producing 2 RGB pixels, e.g., as outlined by the black boundaries.

To tell the truth, Pentax applies a little bit of demosaicing magic and produces 4 RGB pixels from the information of 6 raw pixels. However, it does it in a rather bad way leading to the (arti)fact that two horizontally adjacent RGB pixels have very similiar values, almost reducing the advertized resolution of 1536x1024 down to 768x1024. In part three, however, we will see that part of the information is still there. We'll call this effect the "768-aliasing artifact".

Another problem with the subsampling matrix is that colors are spatially translated, i.e., the green channel sits left of the red+blue (=purple) channels within the subsampling matrix. This leads to green fringe where contrast changes from bright to dark (left to right), and purple fringe where contrast changes from dark to bright. You can see the effect in the following image:



(400% crop of a video frame, left from the K-7, right from the K20D)


You can see the fringe effect which is exactly as wide as the 6x3 subsampling matrix (2 pixels in horizontal direction). Also, K20D and K-7 share almost the same subsampling matrix, with a bit less of the "768-aliasing artifact" in the K-7.

There is a simple experiment that demosaicing of the subsampling matrix is very rudimentary indeed: Pierce a tiny hole into a black cardboard, position the K-7 on a tripod ~10 m away and zoom into the hole image using 10x zoomed live view. With a sharp lens, at most a single raw pixel in the subsampling matrix is hit only. What you see on the rear screen, is an image of the hole which is either dim or bright, in an arbitrary color, depending on minor movements of the camera. The hole is dim if a raw pixel which doesn't take part in the subsampling matrix is hit.


So, to summarize, some fringe (false colors) and jaggy edges are artifacts resulting from the way video frames are extracted from the sensor. Note that the effects are much less visible in 720p which is supersampled from the 1526x1024 feed. The K-7's 720p video quality is stunning.

You may look at the 1536x1024 recording quality as being the "raw image equivalent" for 720p final images. Needing post-processing but retaining extra headroom.




Rolling shutter


Another common problem with video in dSLRs is the rolling shutter. Because the mechanical shutter is too slow for 30 fps, it stays open all the time and an electronic shutter is used. In the K-7, the sensor is read-out line by line in progressive order, bottom edge first, within a period of ~1/30s. Because the image is projected head down, the lines at the top of a final image have been read-out earlier than the lines further down. If the camera is panned, e.g., left to right, then vertical lines become slightly skewed, e.g., tilted anti-clockwise. Therefore, this effect is called skewing effect or jello effect as well.

The jello effect does actually bend non-horizontal straight lines if they are rotating with respect to the camera (so, avoid tilting the camera when recording). It can produce funny images with rotating structures, like propellers, actually :)

As for the K-7, this effect is very well controlled. The skew is exact and without extra jagginess. I.e., the read-out is uninterrupted. Very good! If combined with a bit of motion blur, it becomes almost invisible. I would say that the rolling shutter is almost a non-issue with the K-7. Combine this with the lack of motion-compression artifacts and a gray filter maybe, and the K-7 can produce really stunning panning action.



Video compression codec


Another strong point is the selection of high bitrate MJPEG as the compression codec. Not being an amateur's first choice, it offers greater headroom for post-processing. Individual frames are JPEG-compressed and about 200 KBytes large. The JPEG compression artifacts are visible on larger than 100% inspection but don't disturb. Also, MJPEG is an easy format for post-production. And, it doesn't cause extra burden on the in-camera processing engine.

The container is "Motion JPEG OpenDML AVI" and can be opened on all platforms, e.g., using Apple Quicktime. Of course, for long-term archival, MJPEG needs to be recoded (e.g., to MP4 AVC) to save space.



Audio


The K-7 has a built-in mono microphone capturing a clear sound in the absence of any wind.

It does have a plug for a stereo microphone too. I tried the RØDE Stereo VideoMic connected to the flash hot shoe and it produces excellent results.

It plays back audio over the built-in speaker which is really bad, though ;) For decent audio in the field, one would require an HDMI-capable field monitor with a headphone jack. Yes, I checked that audio is played back via HDMI.

The audio quality seems to be good too. The format is 1 or 2 channels of 16 Bit, 32 kHz PCM.



Temperature


After 5 - 30 minutes of continued video recording, a red thermometer pops up on the rear screen and informs about increasing temperature. I didn't have any recording stopped by temperature alert. But it may be a concern in very hot regions, full sun shine and for extended scene recording.

(Update) I've test-driven continuous video recording at 27°C ambient temperature for 40 minutes. The red thermometer appeared after about 15 minutes. But the camera didn't interrupt. The camera felt warm and burned one out of three battery marks.

A still image shot at the end was ISO 800 and 40°C. It shows a very faint vertical line in the middle, about as pronounced as the ISO800 noise and only visible against a uniform background at 100%, invisible in normal photography. Even invisible against the uniform background are additional vertical lines exactly 256 pixels apart. I don't consider this hot temperature banding to be significant considering it is from a pre-production sensor.

Other observations: right after movie recording with temperature alert, the camera refuses to enter LV but still enters movie mode and continues recording movies (or allows still images using the viewfinder). Only 20s after movie recording, it accepts LV again, incl. the red thermometer. After 2 minutes, the red thermometer has disappeared.

I think at below 30°C ambient temperature, it won't emergency-break a movie recording. (end of update)


This shall conclude Part I. Next will be a discussion about making the K-7 video feature more accessible for real projects.

-> Continue to part II